Wednesday, June 19, 2013

City Docks and Sun Rises

We are moored up to the city dock and I am sitting in the cockpit drinking my coffee watching the joggers go by. It is early morning and the sun has just risen over the reef that surrounds Ra'iatea. We moved to the dock yesterday afternoon, joining SV Ninita and SV Orkestren, boats we have met in Galapagos. We decided the anchorage we were at last night was a bit rolly and although the city dock is literally right in town, it was going to be nice to get to shore for a bit. We will soon need to get ready for a morning dive but for now I have a little time to reflect on the past few days.

Huahine
We left Mo'orea just before sunset on Friday and did an overnight sail to Huahine arriving just as the sun was coming up. Michelle kept me company for most of my night shift which was nice. She dropped out around 10pm and slept through the arrival to the pass and anchoring part but was up in time for coffee. It seems the motion of the boat is a sleep inducer for her as it is for most of us actually and of course the added issue of jet lag..

We had a couple of lazy days on Huahine, enjoying the Saturday morning market in the small town of Fare and happy hour at a seaside restaurant in the afternoon. On Sunday, we rented a car and did a self-guided island tour. It is actually two islands, Huahine Iti and Huahini Ini, joined together by a bridge and together they are small enough to get around in a half day if you don't stop too often. But we stopped and visited all the sights and view points; a pearl farm in a lagoon, the sacred blue eyed eels, a vanilla plantation which was actually a tour of the entire farm and finally we stopped to do a bit of snorkelling. The snorkeling was quite cool. Sort of like the Octopus garden under the sea (check out the Octopus photos below). Monday morning we did a couple of dives with Annie from Mahana Dive; one was a dive though the pass where we saw eagle rays swimming in formation and a few very large gray reef sharks; and the other was what is called the canyon. Great fun!

Ra'iatea and Taha'a
After our morning dives with Annie we had a quick sail across to Ra'iatea arriving just in time for a nice sunset. Ra'iatea is home to the only real wreck dive in the islands (the wrecks on Tahiti were placed there). It was to be an early morning shore dive so needless to say, we had an early night.

In the morning we took the dinghy to the Ra'iatea Pearl Resort from whose dock you get to the Nordby Wreck. This is a boat that sank on the shores of the island in August of 1900. We discovered that this famous wreck was sailing under a Danish flag and was on its way to Liverpool with a cargo of dried coconuts, bees wax, cotton, pearls and copper. It stopped in Ra'iatea to pump its ballast when a storm drove it into the reef putting a hole in the hull. As it took on more water than they could pump out, the beautiful 50 meter three-masted Nordby slowly sank to its final resting place. Captain H. Christiansen had enough time to unload its cargo and salvage as much as possible from the ship which was auctioned to the locals.

It was a bit late for a dive through the pass because of the current and that's when we decided to move to the city dock. It turned out to be a good decision cause it gave Michelle and I a little time for pearl shopping.

After dinner, as we were sitting in the cockpit sipping a little wine, we could hear the sound of drums in the distance. We decided to follow the sound and found ourselves at a rehearsal of a dance and drum troupe consisting of over 50 dancers, men and women. What a wonderful show despite the fact they were not in costume. The dance and drum troupes on all the islands are getting ready for an inter-island competition that takes place in July. I am sure that would be an event worth seeing.

After our dive today we will sail to Bora Bora, meeting up with some new friends on Moonbeam for dinner.

Note: Under water photos courtesy of Michelle.





















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