The Tramps are at it Again

March 10, 2014

Mount Ngauruhoe or Mount Doom as it is also known.  We saw it from the other side when we did the Tama Lakes Tramp last month.

5:AM – Alarm goes off.  It’s still dark out but lucky for us the sky is clear and the stars are shining bright; the promise of a nice day ahead.

6:AM – Transport arrives at the Campervan site.  We jump in with a daypack, dressed in our hiking gear; hiking boots, pants, wind jacket, cameras, hiking stick, etc.  It’s going to be a long day so we have packed a lunch and have plenty of water.

7:AM – We get dropped at the start of the track.  The sun is rising and there is just enough daylight to see the track ahead of us as well as the mountain we are about to climb.  The track starts at 1140 meters, climbs up to the highest point at 1886 meters and back down to 800 meters over a distance of 19.4 kilometers. 

(Note to self…didn’t I say last time we climbed a mountain that I was never going to do that again??   Well, this time, I really mean it. 19.4 kilometers of up and up and down and down and down.  What am I doing here? )

8:40AM – We’ve reached the South Crater, which is at 1659 meters and is just between Mount Tongariro (1967 meters) and Mount Ngauruhoe (2287 meters).  The signpost says it should have taken us two and a half hours.  Seems we’re faster than the average tramper.  And it wasn’t so bad of a climb really.  Feeling pretty good so far I must say.  We’re enjoying the views of Mount Ngauruhoe (or Mount Doom as you may recall it is often referred to) and quite satisfied that we decided not to climb up to the summit although it does look tempting. 

(NTS…well maybe all this tramping is paying off and my level of fitness has improved to a point where a tramp like this is just a walk in the park.  Am I being too hasty in my decision to stick to flat terrain?)

9:28AM – As we climb higher we are afforded some fantastic views of Mount Doom.  The sun is highlighting the red tones on the rocks and it looks quite magnificent.  We’re now at the saddle and still have a few meters to climb to reach our highest point, which is on the ridge of the Red Crater. 

(NTS…Gads this part is really steep.  I’m never doing this again.  Ever!)

 

The Red Crater in the foreground and Mount Ngauruhoe in the background.

9:36AM – We’ve reached the highest point on this tramp and have a spectacular view of the Red Crater and the Emerald and Blue Lakes.  Gorgeous.  Just Gorgeous.  As we descend we notice the earth is a little warmer.  Oh, did I tell you these volcanoes are still active and one of them blew up just a couple of years ago? 

Coming off the ridge of the Red Crater is a steep downhill; 196 meters of gravel and sand taking us down to the Central Crater.  We walk across the Central Crater to the Blue Lake where we stop for lunch, even though it is only 10AM.  After all, we did have breakfast at the ungodly hour of 5:30AM.   It looks like the rest of the tramp is a downhill march (thank heavens). 

After lunch we reach a signpost that says; “Volcanic risk and track status.  If light is flashing turn around and go back.”  Just up ahead of us is the Te Moari volcano that erupted in 2012.  She’s still smokin’ hot and the local government warns you that you are “entering an active volcanic hazard zone”.  But they also give you some good advice on what to do should an eruption suddenly occur.  Are you ready for this?  First thing to do is to run to a safety zone, which may be on higher ground, or it may not be.  Also, if rocks are flying, don’t turn your back to them.  Really?  I guess it’s better to have it hit you in the face and not on the back of the head?  Or do they expect we are nimble enough that if a 20 ton piece of rock came flying towards us we could just quickly sidestep out of it’s way?  Good luck with that!  I think I will volunteer to rewrite their safety advice.  It will be simple and would go something like this:  “If a volcanic eruption should occur while you are in the area, please be aware that you are f**ked.  Sorry.  May we suggest you find a comfortable spot and enjoy the fireworks.”

12:30PM – We’re now most of the ways down the other side.  We can see the smoky volcano in the distance and we also pass by some boulders that flew out in 2012.  You should see the size of the craters these boulders created.  Seriously nasty stuff.  You definitely don’t want to get hit by that and I would suggest you do try to side step it to the best of your abilities should one come flying towards you.   Might need to rewrite the safety advice…

Another really funny sign on the track said something to the effect that this was an area of danger and you should move quickly through it.  And not ten yards ahead of the sign were the toilets.  I guess they didn’t really want you to use the toilets.  Or do so, at your own risk.

 

Steam still rising from Mount Moari.  Hot stuff baby.  The smell of sulphur hangs in the air.

1:45PM – Ah!  Relief at last.  The hiking boots are off and it’s time to massage those aching feet while we wait for our transport back to Lucky 3.  It’s a good feeling – we completed the hike in 6 ½ hours including a nice long lunch break and a rest break.  We knew we would have time to kill as the driver said he wouldn’t be picking us up till 3PM so when we realized we were ahead of schedule we dawdled along and enjoyed the sun and the scenery after we reached the highest point.  Somehow there is a sense of urgency to get to the highest point as compared to coming down again.

As well as the view of the mountains, lakes and craters, I thoroughly enjoyed looking at the alpine flora, marveling at the small flowers, tussock, grasses and the beautiful blooming alpine heather.  I would rate this hike in our top ten.  It is after all, said to be the most popular day hike in New Zealand.   

(NTS … how is it possible that my feet can be so sore after the miles and miles of hiking we have done during the past month.  You think I would be used to it by now.  And if you think the uphill bits are difficult I can tell you, the downhill bits are sometimes worse.  Oh, my poor knees.   Well, that’s it for certain; I stick to my decision – no more hikes up mountains and no more hikes that are longer than 4 hours!)