I have run that question around my head several times during this first week on Kauehi. I think the lifestyle here is quite similar to that in the San Blas and I never really figured that one out either. How and why do people live here. There is nothing much in the way of resources or activities. They traditionally lived off fish and coconuts and because the motus don't have any soil to speak of, most of the land being hard packed dead coral pieces resembling a rough gravel, there aren't too many other types of plants. But it seems they were content to eke out a living on these bits of land, paddling their little boats to other islands now and again, just passing time I guess.
Then the Brits, the Spaniards and the French arrived full of ideas for enterprises to export goods such as coconuts and pearls, discovered phosphate deposits and started mining that, and when the natural pearls became nearly extinct, developed pearl farming. Now we see the rise of tourism with inter island cruises and regular flights from Tahiti with tours offering activities such as scuba diving, visits to pearl farms and lazing on your own private motu. But the lifestyle of the local people hasn't changed a great deal it seems. Long lazy stress free days, never in a hurry, never in a panic.
However, I have this deeply ingrained need to be somewhat productive and after five consecutive days of looking at a beautiful scenic beach and snorkelling the crystal clear waters I am just about ready to jump out of my skin, just for something to do. Time to move on...next stop, Fakarava.
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Kauehi - Our Very First Atoll
As we approached the Tuamotus archipelago our first thoughts were that they looked very much like the San Blas Islands, low-lying, sandy islands covered in palm trees.
It was nice to finally arrive as it had been a rather tough sail from Ua Pou. We had a lot of wind and huge swells. It was really difficult to move about in the cabin so needless to say, my dear Jens had to do most of the food preparations. I was feeling rather green this trip and only went down to sleep. We also got a bit wet both from the many squalls and from the waves that crashed into the cockpit. It wasn't the smoothest sail. Thank heavens it was only four days.
The reward was the calmest night we have had since we can't remember when. Probably not since we have been in a slip at Shelter Bay Marina in Panama. That's a long time! How sweet it was to sleep with a cool breeze and a completely still and quiet boat. Not even the sound of waves slapping against the side. I think we have found paradise!
How is this possible way out here in the middle of the Pacific Ocean? It is all thanks to the atoll. The atoll is a geological marvel created over hundreds and millions of years. In non-geek language this is how they are formed. First, deep down on the ocean floor a bubble of magma raises up creating a volcanic mound that eventually breaks through the surface of the water and creates a volcanic island. Once the lava has stopped flowing the wind and rain start to erode the sides, sometimes creating fertile soil. Along the edges at the sea, coral reefs start to form creating a ring around the mound. The weather continues to erode the volcano and it eventually completely disappears or collapses into itself leaving only the ring of the coral reef around a lagoon. The coral reef has by this time risen high enough to sustain plant life such as palm trees and the dead corals have worn away making some sandy beaches. The lagoon usually has a few passes into it that were created by the rain water that would have streamed down the sides of the volcano creating rivers down to the ocean and thus areas where the coral could not develop. Some of the passes or breaks in the circle of the reef around the lagoon are large and deep enough to sail through and the breaks in the reef create a string or necklace of small islands called motus.
The calmest place to anchor is inside the lagoon. The trick is to get into the lagoon safely as the passes can be shallow and narrow and you have to deal with large ocean swells coming in and a strong current caused by the water running in or out with the tides not to mention the force of the wind. The best time to attempt entry or exit is at slack tide, so either at the peak of high tide or low tide. These are interesting calculations to make since the tide tables for each atoll are not available and you need to guesstimate based on the information you have. But luckily Jens has a mathematical brain and has figured this all out.
The Tuamotus was an area often passed over by cruisers because of the danger of unmarked reefs and coral heads, lack of secure anchoring spots except for inside the atolls which can be difficult or treacherous to enter and even then because the islands are so low lying they provide very little shelter from wind. It is said there are boats that have run aground in the reefs even after the days of GPS. Entering into an atoll can be an intimidating moment when you see the water churning at the entrance of the pass with a mix of current and swells. Sailors arriving tired and stressed after a difficult passage from the Marquesas or the Gambiers are not in the best of shape to attempt such an activity and often choose to head directly to Tahiti and the calm waters of the Society islands. As I said before, sailors love stories and just hearing tell of a ship run aground is enough to have most cruisers giving this area a wide berth for many years or until the story is forgotten or until there are enough stories of sailors who have had a great experience in an atoll and talk about the marvellous snorkelling to make it worth a try.
Our first entry was no problem at all, but we picked Kauehi as our first atoll for that very reason. We knew the pass was wide and deep and the lagoon easy to manoeuvre into. Some lagoons have many coral heads just below the surface of the water. This makes for tricky navigating to an anchoring spot, but also makes for interesting snorkelling. Lagoons are host to a large variety of reef fish, rays and sharks and some really lovely coral formations. The water is crystal clear and gorgeous shades of green and blue due to the white sand bottoms. Time to get the swimmers on and take a dip!
It was nice to finally arrive as it had been a rather tough sail from Ua Pou. We had a lot of wind and huge swells. It was really difficult to move about in the cabin so needless to say, my dear Jens had to do most of the food preparations. I was feeling rather green this trip and only went down to sleep. We also got a bit wet both from the many squalls and from the waves that crashed into the cockpit. It wasn't the smoothest sail. Thank heavens it was only four days.
The reward was the calmest night we have had since we can't remember when. Probably not since we have been in a slip at Shelter Bay Marina in Panama. That's a long time! How sweet it was to sleep with a cool breeze and a completely still and quiet boat. Not even the sound of waves slapping against the side. I think we have found paradise!
How is this possible way out here in the middle of the Pacific Ocean? It is all thanks to the atoll. The atoll is a geological marvel created over hundreds and millions of years. In non-geek language this is how they are formed. First, deep down on the ocean floor a bubble of magma raises up creating a volcanic mound that eventually breaks through the surface of the water and creates a volcanic island. Once the lava has stopped flowing the wind and rain start to erode the sides, sometimes creating fertile soil. Along the edges at the sea, coral reefs start to form creating a ring around the mound. The weather continues to erode the volcano and it eventually completely disappears or collapses into itself leaving only the ring of the coral reef around a lagoon. The coral reef has by this time risen high enough to sustain plant life such as palm trees and the dead corals have worn away making some sandy beaches. The lagoon usually has a few passes into it that were created by the rain water that would have streamed down the sides of the volcano creating rivers down to the ocean and thus areas where the coral could not develop. Some of the passes or breaks in the circle of the reef around the lagoon are large and deep enough to sail through and the breaks in the reef create a string or necklace of small islands called motus.
The calmest place to anchor is inside the lagoon. The trick is to get into the lagoon safely as the passes can be shallow and narrow and you have to deal with large ocean swells coming in and a strong current caused by the water running in or out with the tides not to mention the force of the wind. The best time to attempt entry or exit is at slack tide, so either at the peak of high tide or low tide. These are interesting calculations to make since the tide tables for each atoll are not available and you need to guesstimate based on the information you have. But luckily Jens has a mathematical brain and has figured this all out.
The Tuamotus was an area often passed over by cruisers because of the danger of unmarked reefs and coral heads, lack of secure anchoring spots except for inside the atolls which can be difficult or treacherous to enter and even then because the islands are so low lying they provide very little shelter from wind. It is said there are boats that have run aground in the reefs even after the days of GPS. Entering into an atoll can be an intimidating moment when you see the water churning at the entrance of the pass with a mix of current and swells. Sailors arriving tired and stressed after a difficult passage from the Marquesas or the Gambiers are not in the best of shape to attempt such an activity and often choose to head directly to Tahiti and the calm waters of the Society islands. As I said before, sailors love stories and just hearing tell of a ship run aground is enough to have most cruisers giving this area a wide berth for many years or until the story is forgotten or until there are enough stories of sailors who have had a great experience in an atoll and talk about the marvellous snorkelling to make it worth a try.
Our first entry was no problem at all, but we picked Kauehi as our first atoll for that very reason. We knew the pass was wide and deep and the lagoon easy to manoeuvre into. Some lagoons have many coral heads just below the surface of the water. This makes for tricky navigating to an anchoring spot, but also makes for interesting snorkelling. Lagoons are host to a large variety of reef fish, rays and sharks and some really lovely coral formations. The water is crystal clear and gorgeous shades of green and blue due to the white sand bottoms. Time to get the swimmers on and take a dip!
SEGWUN is at Sea Again
Hi folks. SEGWUN here again. I haven't had a chance to have my say since we crossed through the Panama Canal to the Pacific Ocean last October. The first mate is feeling a little sea sick today, so I finally have my chance to speak.
Yup, we are at sea once again. Can you believe it? I spent more than 21 days sailing my butt off to get them to land, and they barely get the green gunk off my bottom and we're off again. This is one big ocean we are sailing in. I heard them talking the other day and it seems we are only half way to New Zealand. Half way! Can that really be true? Oh, it's times like this when I really do miss my beloved Chesapeake Bay. All those familiar people and places and my lovely, lovely berth at Osprey Point Marina. Gosh I miss them sometimes. I wonder if they also miss me.
But on the bright side I have met many other nice boats. A few of my relatives as well. There were at least four of us Island Packets in one bay not long ago. And I just know, not to be snotty or anything, that we are the prettiest of the boats at anchor. Mind you I can't compete with Erica XII. She's a 172 foot sail boat built in Holland. She's also quite young, less than 10 years old. My feelings were a little hurt when my captain kept staring at her, through his binoculars no less. And then he looks her up on the Internet and drools over her some more. Sure makes me feel a little under appreciated. And to make it worse, at the next bay we sail to, there is SuRi, a huge motor yacht. You would think there is no competition, until they start taking the toys out. Seadoos, motor boats, a vintage cruiser, a two story slide and to really make you jealous, a helicopter. Word was that it was Tom Cruise's boat but that turned out to be a rumour. Well all toys aside, she wasn't the nicest looking yacht.
In my heart, I know they really love me best. The seas today are big with huge 4 meter swells and 22 knot winds, but they know I can handle that. No sweat. Even with my genoa furled to just a tiny square I'm moving us along at 6 knots. The sea is a bit bouncy on this journey so I understand it is not the most comfortable sailing and those big swells are coming across my bow and sometimes crashing into the cockpit. We're a happy group and we all get along just fine. My Captain takes good care of me and he brags about my beautiful lines, bright work and performance every chance he gets. And I know the first mate wouldn't trade me for anything even if she does get a bit sea sick now and again. As much as I sometimes miss the good old days of sailing the Atlantic I really do enjoy the challenge and the sights of the Pacific. What a magnificent journey I am on.
Ah yes, back to the journey. This trip will be a little shorter than the last. Only three and a half days to the Tuamotus. We expect to get to the atoll called Kauehi by Sunday. A distance of only 509 miles from Ua Pou. I heard they received a message on their satellite phone from my buddy S/V Enchantment. They left from Nuku Hiva last Saturday and are already there. Enchantment is also an Island Packet you see. We first met at the San Isabel anchorage in Galapagos and since then we have anchored close to each other several times. So nice to travel with my sister ship.
We'll be visiting some of the atolls of this archipelago over the next few weeks and then head to Pape'ete, Tahiti where we are picking up a very special guest. Lots of excitement on this little craft.
Yup, we are at sea once again. Can you believe it? I spent more than 21 days sailing my butt off to get them to land, and they barely get the green gunk off my bottom and we're off again. This is one big ocean we are sailing in. I heard them talking the other day and it seems we are only half way to New Zealand. Half way! Can that really be true? Oh, it's times like this when I really do miss my beloved Chesapeake Bay. All those familiar people and places and my lovely, lovely berth at Osprey Point Marina. Gosh I miss them sometimes. I wonder if they also miss me.
But on the bright side I have met many other nice boats. A few of my relatives as well. There were at least four of us Island Packets in one bay not long ago. And I just know, not to be snotty or anything, that we are the prettiest of the boats at anchor. Mind you I can't compete with Erica XII. She's a 172 foot sail boat built in Holland. She's also quite young, less than 10 years old. My feelings were a little hurt when my captain kept staring at her, through his binoculars no less. And then he looks her up on the Internet and drools over her some more. Sure makes me feel a little under appreciated. And to make it worse, at the next bay we sail to, there is SuRi, a huge motor yacht. You would think there is no competition, until they start taking the toys out. Seadoos, motor boats, a vintage cruiser, a two story slide and to really make you jealous, a helicopter. Word was that it was Tom Cruise's boat but that turned out to be a rumour. Well all toys aside, she wasn't the nicest looking yacht.
In my heart, I know they really love me best. The seas today are big with huge 4 meter swells and 22 knot winds, but they know I can handle that. No sweat. Even with my genoa furled to just a tiny square I'm moving us along at 6 knots. The sea is a bit bouncy on this journey so I understand it is not the most comfortable sailing and those big swells are coming across my bow and sometimes crashing into the cockpit. We're a happy group and we all get along just fine. My Captain takes good care of me and he brags about my beautiful lines, bright work and performance every chance he gets. And I know the first mate wouldn't trade me for anything even if she does get a bit sea sick now and again. As much as I sometimes miss the good old days of sailing the Atlantic I really do enjoy the challenge and the sights of the Pacific. What a magnificent journey I am on.
Ah yes, back to the journey. This trip will be a little shorter than the last. Only three and a half days to the Tuamotus. We expect to get to the atoll called Kauehi by Sunday. A distance of only 509 miles from Ua Pou. I heard they received a message on their satellite phone from my buddy S/V Enchantment. They left from Nuku Hiva last Saturday and are already there. Enchantment is also an Island Packet you see. We first met at the San Isabel anchorage in Galapagos and since then we have anchored close to each other several times. So nice to travel with my sister ship.
We'll be visiting some of the atolls of this archipelago over the next few weeks and then head to Pape'ete, Tahiti where we are picking up a very special guest. Lots of excitement on this little craft.
Erica XII at anchorage.
M/Y SuRi with it's garage full of toys and a helicopter no less.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Ua Pou Leaves a Lasting Impression
Our last island destination in the Marquesas was Ua Pou. It was a short four and a half hour sail from Nuku Hiva aided by a good stiff breeze as we traveled at about 7 knots. We sailed across together with Wizard and Breeze and arrived to find Sea Whisper already here. Sea Whisper is a Canadian boat, Wizard is from the USA and Breeze, although registered in Road Harbour, Bahamas is owned by a Swedish couple.
We had sundowners with Lionel and Barbara on Sea Whisper that evening. They have been sailing for about as long as we have but left from Victoria and spent some time in the Sea of Cortez off the coast of Mexico. In fact it seems the West Coast cruising community spend at least one season there before doing the puddle jump.
The island's profile is unique with 12 volcanic cones jutting up into the sky. This side of the island can be quite dry desert like while the valleys on the East coast are more lush and green. The next day we headed to shore to take a walk across the island to Hohoi beach together with the crews of Breeze and Wizard. It was a long way and as is common in the islands, we were given lifts over and back.
The beach is famous for its pierre fleuris, or flower pebble which is a garnet phonolite, a rare volcanic rock found only here on Ua Pou and Brazil. We discovered the entire beach is rocks and pebbles so it was a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack particularly as we didn't really know what we were looking for. Ella, the daughter of Sabina and Per on Breeze found the nicest one. The rest of us collected shells and other pretty rocks instead and we all enjoyed the lovely stone beach. On the way back through the village of Hohoi we stopped in at a local craftsman who carves the rocks into necklaces, pestles and turtles and there we could each get a nice souvenir to take home.
That night we had a dinner at the pension together with Breeze and sampled the local fare such as breadfruit gratinee and poisson cru. The owner of the pension gives tours of the island and told us a lot about the Marquesan history. Noticing his many tattoos, we discussed the meaning behind the symbols and designs they use. Tattoos are an old tradition of The South Pacific and the Marquesan tattoos are very intricate in design. And as it turns out our host at the pension is also a tattoo artist.
Well, a bottle of wine later, and Jens was making an appointment for a tattoo for the following day. He decided he would like to have a manta ray, symbol of liberty and a whale, symbol of long travels. The tattooists suggested to incorporate the Marquesan cross and the symbol for good weather into the design. He drew it first on a paper and then on Jens' shoulder in pen before making it permanent. It turned out quite beautiful and is a nice way to remember the wonderful experience we have had in these islands.
We had sundowners with Lionel and Barbara on Sea Whisper that evening. They have been sailing for about as long as we have but left from Victoria and spent some time in the Sea of Cortez off the coast of Mexico. In fact it seems the West Coast cruising community spend at least one season there before doing the puddle jump.
The island's profile is unique with 12 volcanic cones jutting up into the sky. This side of the island can be quite dry desert like while the valleys on the East coast are more lush and green. The next day we headed to shore to take a walk across the island to Hohoi beach together with the crews of Breeze and Wizard. It was a long way and as is common in the islands, we were given lifts over and back.
The beach is famous for its pierre fleuris, or flower pebble which is a garnet phonolite, a rare volcanic rock found only here on Ua Pou and Brazil. We discovered the entire beach is rocks and pebbles so it was a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack particularly as we didn't really know what we were looking for. Ella, the daughter of Sabina and Per on Breeze found the nicest one. The rest of us collected shells and other pretty rocks instead and we all enjoyed the lovely stone beach. On the way back through the village of Hohoi we stopped in at a local craftsman who carves the rocks into necklaces, pestles and turtles and there we could each get a nice souvenir to take home.
That night we had a dinner at the pension together with Breeze and sampled the local fare such as breadfruit gratinee and poisson cru. The owner of the pension gives tours of the island and told us a lot about the Marquesan history. Noticing his many tattoos, we discussed the meaning behind the symbols and designs they use. Tattoos are an old tradition of The South Pacific and the Marquesan tattoos are very intricate in design. And as it turns out our host at the pension is also a tattoo artist.
Well, a bottle of wine later, and Jens was making an appointment for a tattoo for the following day. He decided he would like to have a manta ray, symbol of liberty and a whale, symbol of long travels. The tattooists suggested to incorporate the Marquesan cross and the symbol for good weather into the design. He drew it first on a paper and then on Jens' shoulder in pen before making it permanent. It turned out quite beautiful and is a nice way to remember the wonderful experience we have had in these islands.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
The Cruisers
We have been 'cruising' for about 18 months now and have had the pleasure of meeting many people traveling and living on their boats. It is interesting to meet people from all over the world, hear their stories and share information about the places we have been or the places we are going to. And although it is a relatively small population of the world that are living on the water, I have found you can group them into categories. This isn't a scientific exercise by any means, just some general observations,
Categories
The Young Adventurers
Typically mid 20's to early 30's the people in this group don't yet have children and have earned just enough money to buy a boat (usually quite small) and plan to sail around the world in 2 years or less or until the money runs out. Lured by the adventures of the sea they have willingly left the securities of home and job. High energy, quick to get to shore at the destination and explore all things possible before shoving off to the next port.
The Families
My guess is these are people who thought of sailing around the world in their early twenties and somehow didn't get started or waited till they had a little more money to buy the boat they wanted. By then they have had a couple of kids but decided the time was now or never. Equipped with all you need for homeschooling they set off to explore the world. I have to say, they are quite admirable as a boat can be a small space for young ones with a lot of energy to burn.
The Early Retirees
This is the group that Jens and I fall into. Not quite old enough to collect a pension cheque every month but decided the monthly pay cheque just isn't as important as living ones dream while still young and healthy enough to fully enjoy it. These are couples who have either been together for a long time or are newly married. I am what I have come to realize, the "sailor wife". Typically the first wife probably wasn't interested in the idea of living on a sail boat so when wife number two should come along, make certain that sailing the world is discussed early and often as you develop the relationship. Otherwise, you might find yourself in the category of Single Handers.
The Single Handers
Middle aged men who didn't find a sailing wife or are just too ornery to share a small space with a mate and decided to go it alone. Watch out for these guys as they spend a lot of time in their own company so when they do find other people, it is near impossible to get them to stop talking.
The Die Aboards
Having sold everything to buy the boat of their dreams, this group's biggest concern is with the cost of living going forward and the main purpose of cruising has turned into finding paradise for a penny including all the beer you can drink. They usually end up at an anchorage somewhere off the coast of a small town where groceries and entertainment are cheap. The boat quickly becomes a fixture in the bay, green bottomed and dull from lack of polish and regular maintenance and they themselves quickly become fixtures at the local watering hole. The residents of these boats are easy to spot having long given up professional haircuts and forgotten the fine art of a regular shave. Their clothes are faded and worn and their footwear is a pair of razor thin flip flops. They probably had intended to cruise around the world at one point but discovered the cost was going to exceed their means as boat maintenance and repairs can be quite steep and marina fees can quickly erode a good part of your monthly budget.
What we all have in common:
We love cheap stuff, particularly good prices on food and wine. To the point that even the biggest wine snobs soon tout the virtues of wine in a box. It's important to stretch our budget as far as possible because the fact of the matter is sailboats do need constant care and maintenance. And things for boats are always incredibly expensive. And you can't find them everywhere so add to that the cost of shipping.
We have lots of stories to tell, and stories of things gone wrong are the most popular. The men talk about engines and sails and rudders and bilges and whatever, while us girls talk about how to bake bread and cakes in that incredibly small oven, where to buy the best souvenirs in town and where we should go for dinner.
Best of all, cruisers are quick to make friends and invitations to a sundowner evening is a regular occurrence. After spending so many days at sea, even if it is with your soul mate, we still look forward to some fresh company now and again.
Categories
The Young Adventurers
Typically mid 20's to early 30's the people in this group don't yet have children and have earned just enough money to buy a boat (usually quite small) and plan to sail around the world in 2 years or less or until the money runs out. Lured by the adventures of the sea they have willingly left the securities of home and job. High energy, quick to get to shore at the destination and explore all things possible before shoving off to the next port.
The Families
My guess is these are people who thought of sailing around the world in their early twenties and somehow didn't get started or waited till they had a little more money to buy the boat they wanted. By then they have had a couple of kids but decided the time was now or never. Equipped with all you need for homeschooling they set off to explore the world. I have to say, they are quite admirable as a boat can be a small space for young ones with a lot of energy to burn.
The Early Retirees
This is the group that Jens and I fall into. Not quite old enough to collect a pension cheque every month but decided the monthly pay cheque just isn't as important as living ones dream while still young and healthy enough to fully enjoy it. These are couples who have either been together for a long time or are newly married. I am what I have come to realize, the "sailor wife". Typically the first wife probably wasn't interested in the idea of living on a sail boat so when wife number two should come along, make certain that sailing the world is discussed early and often as you develop the relationship. Otherwise, you might find yourself in the category of Single Handers.
The Single Handers
Middle aged men who didn't find a sailing wife or are just too ornery to share a small space with a mate and decided to go it alone. Watch out for these guys as they spend a lot of time in their own company so when they do find other people, it is near impossible to get them to stop talking.
The Die Aboards
Having sold everything to buy the boat of their dreams, this group's biggest concern is with the cost of living going forward and the main purpose of cruising has turned into finding paradise for a penny including all the beer you can drink. They usually end up at an anchorage somewhere off the coast of a small town where groceries and entertainment are cheap. The boat quickly becomes a fixture in the bay, green bottomed and dull from lack of polish and regular maintenance and they themselves quickly become fixtures at the local watering hole. The residents of these boats are easy to spot having long given up professional haircuts and forgotten the fine art of a regular shave. Their clothes are faded and worn and their footwear is a pair of razor thin flip flops. They probably had intended to cruise around the world at one point but discovered the cost was going to exceed their means as boat maintenance and repairs can be quite steep and marina fees can quickly erode a good part of your monthly budget.
What we all have in common:
We love cheap stuff, particularly good prices on food and wine. To the point that even the biggest wine snobs soon tout the virtues of wine in a box. It's important to stretch our budget as far as possible because the fact of the matter is sailboats do need constant care and maintenance. And things for boats are always incredibly expensive. And you can't find them everywhere so add to that the cost of shipping.
We have lots of stories to tell, and stories of things gone wrong are the most popular. The men talk about engines and sails and rudders and bilges and whatever, while us girls talk about how to bake bread and cakes in that incredibly small oven, where to buy the best souvenirs in town and where we should go for dinner.
Best of all, cruisers are quick to make friends and invitations to a sundowner evening is a regular occurrence. After spending so many days at sea, even if it is with your soul mate, we still look forward to some fresh company now and again.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
And now for the rest of the Marquesas
The inhabited islands of the Marquesas:
Population Sq Km
Nuku Hiva 2632 340
Hiva Oa 1991 320
Fatu Hiva 562 80
Ua Huka 582 83
Tahuata 671 70
Ua Pou 2110 125
Total 8548 1018
We left Fatu Hiva at first light and had good wind to sail to Tahuata's Hanamoenoa Bay. A couple of nights at this idyllic anchorage with its beautiful white sand beach that feels like brown sugar between your toes and crystal clear aquamarine colored water is about all you need. Rested and ready to go after a good day of snorkeling and beach bumming, we are heading to Ua Huka.
After a 4 am wake up call and a full day of sailing, we set anchor just around sunset in Baie Hane on Ua Huka. In the morning we hiked up the jungle mountain to see more tikis. These had not been excavated and were rather covered with lichen and moss making it a bit difficult to make out the features. But it was a beautiful spot with an amazing view of the bay. We then headed over to the next bay to scope out a craft center. There is said to be many carvers on this island and we were not disappointed with the variety, quantity and quality of pieces. We picked up a couple of items carved out of Rosewood which will hopefully find their way to the cottage in Canada.
There are more horses on this Island than people. It was strange to see horses wandering around town and along the hillsides on their own. Seeing these beautiful animals roaming free in this craggy volcanic rock mountain covered in mango and coconut trees creates a surreal environment. And as we are walking along the road and a car stops to offer us a lift, we know for certain we are in a place like no other. After a lazy afternoon of snorkeling in the bay and reading, it is time again to move on ... Next stop, Nuku Hiva.
Ah, Nuku Hiva. We had originally planned to make Nuku Hiva our first port of call in the Marquesas before we were wooed to Hiva Oa and it's proximity to Fatu Hiva. Nuku Hiva is the largest and most populated island and boasts some fine supermarkets with gourmet stuffs imported from France, I have stopped wincing at the prices and just pop what I want to buy into my cart. Since we don't need to pay anchorage or marina fees, our expenses are quite reasonable this month. It might be different when we got to the Tuamotus as we'll have to save some money for scuba diving. So in the meantime, we have a little indulgence with a nice variety of cheese, olives and fresh fruit.
Our first port on Nuku Hiva was Baie Taiohae where we ran into several other cruisers we had met in Galapagos. We did a self guided walking tour of the town visiting the church and the ancient sites on the bay. Then we skooched around to what is known as Daniels Bay, but is officially called Hakatea Bay, a short 1 hour journey. We anchored and went ashore to hike to the worlds third highest waterfall called Vaipo Waterfall. Well, at least that's what the Lonely Planet book says. I need to verify that. The anchorage is in a small bay created by a collapsed volcanic crater with a steep mountain side on one end and a beach at the other. This the second location used by the Survivor tv series we have come across (the first was in Las Perlas, Panama).
The hike to the waterfall was absolutely delightful. I felt as though we had stepped back in time, or somehow landed into a scene from Jurassic Park. I wouldn't have been at all surprised to see a dinosaur as we made our way along the path following the river for about two hours getting deeper and deeper into a jungle thick with vegetation, banyan trees and the occasional mango and coconut trees. We couldn't resist to pick up a few mangos on our way to supplement our packed lunch. The deeper we went, the more dramatic the scenery with cliff walls raising steeply on either side and the volcanic cones standing tall and majestic. Passing through a lush meadow we could see the waterfall at the far end. What a beautiful part of the world we have found ourselves in. A real feast for the eyes. Jens, Michelle and Verne (SY Enchantment) went for a swim in the cool fresh water of the rock pools below the falls which are said to be the bathing area for the queens of the ancient tribes while I snapped a few photos. We trekked back to the boat after our picnic lunch and a stop at the small village to buy some local fruit.
We have yet to explore the island of Ua Pou which will be our last stop before sailing to the Tuomotus next week. It might be a while before the next blog posting. But hang in there...more to come!
Population Sq Km
Nuku Hiva 2632 340
Hiva Oa 1991 320
Fatu Hiva 562 80
Ua Huka 582 83
Tahuata 671 70
Ua Pou 2110 125
Total 8548 1018
We left Fatu Hiva at first light and had good wind to sail to Tahuata's Hanamoenoa Bay. A couple of nights at this idyllic anchorage with its beautiful white sand beach that feels like brown sugar between your toes and crystal clear aquamarine colored water is about all you need. Rested and ready to go after a good day of snorkeling and beach bumming, we are heading to Ua Huka.
After a 4 am wake up call and a full day of sailing, we set anchor just around sunset in Baie Hane on Ua Huka. In the morning we hiked up the jungle mountain to see more tikis. These had not been excavated and were rather covered with lichen and moss making it a bit difficult to make out the features. But it was a beautiful spot with an amazing view of the bay. We then headed over to the next bay to scope out a craft center. There is said to be many carvers on this island and we were not disappointed with the variety, quantity and quality of pieces. We picked up a couple of items carved out of Rosewood which will hopefully find their way to the cottage in Canada.
There are more horses on this Island than people. It was strange to see horses wandering around town and along the hillsides on their own. Seeing these beautiful animals roaming free in this craggy volcanic rock mountain covered in mango and coconut trees creates a surreal environment. And as we are walking along the road and a car stops to offer us a lift, we know for certain we are in a place like no other. After a lazy afternoon of snorkeling in the bay and reading, it is time again to move on ... Next stop, Nuku Hiva.
Ah, Nuku Hiva. We had originally planned to make Nuku Hiva our first port of call in the Marquesas before we were wooed to Hiva Oa and it's proximity to Fatu Hiva. Nuku Hiva is the largest and most populated island and boasts some fine supermarkets with gourmet stuffs imported from France, I have stopped wincing at the prices and just pop what I want to buy into my cart. Since we don't need to pay anchorage or marina fees, our expenses are quite reasonable this month. It might be different when we got to the Tuamotus as we'll have to save some money for scuba diving. So in the meantime, we have a little indulgence with a nice variety of cheese, olives and fresh fruit.
Our first port on Nuku Hiva was Baie Taiohae where we ran into several other cruisers we had met in Galapagos. We did a self guided walking tour of the town visiting the church and the ancient sites on the bay. Then we skooched around to what is known as Daniels Bay, but is officially called Hakatea Bay, a short 1 hour journey. We anchored and went ashore to hike to the worlds third highest waterfall called Vaipo Waterfall. Well, at least that's what the Lonely Planet book says. I need to verify that. The anchorage is in a small bay created by a collapsed volcanic crater with a steep mountain side on one end and a beach at the other. This the second location used by the Survivor tv series we have come across (the first was in Las Perlas, Panama).
The hike to the waterfall was absolutely delightful. I felt as though we had stepped back in time, or somehow landed into a scene from Jurassic Park. I wouldn't have been at all surprised to see a dinosaur as we made our way along the path following the river for about two hours getting deeper and deeper into a jungle thick with vegetation, banyan trees and the occasional mango and coconut trees. We couldn't resist to pick up a few mangos on our way to supplement our packed lunch. The deeper we went, the more dramatic the scenery with cliff walls raising steeply on either side and the volcanic cones standing tall and majestic. Passing through a lush meadow we could see the waterfall at the far end. What a beautiful part of the world we have found ourselves in. A real feast for the eyes. Jens, Michelle and Verne (SY Enchantment) went for a swim in the cool fresh water of the rock pools below the falls which are said to be the bathing area for the queens of the ancient tribes while I snapped a few photos. We trekked back to the boat after our picnic lunch and a stop at the small village to buy some local fruit.
We have yet to explore the island of Ua Pou which will be our last stop before sailing to the Tuomotus next week. It might be a while before the next blog posting. But hang in there...more to come!
Monday, May 6, 2013
Bay of Virgins
After almost a week in Hiva Oa, having loaded up on fuel and had some good hours of wifi and telephone, found our land legs and got a bit of exercise, we're ready to see the other islands in the Marquesas.
We left on Tuesday and made a 45 mile sail to Fatu Hiva where we anchored at the Bay of Virgins (originally named the Bay of Penises until the Christians showed up and found the name to be offensive to their delicate sensibilities and quickly renamed it). It is a spectacular anchorage and the rock formations are outstanding whatever you want to call them. But certainly more akin to penises than virgins.
In the morning we walked up the hill to get a view of the bay. It is amazing how quickly we get out of shape so it was good to get a little cardio exercise. Then we hiked inland, passing through a coconut grove and a dense rainforest area to get to the waterfall. Such a beautiful island; a real tropical paradise.
As we walked through town we noticed the locals were preparing for a celebration of sorts. We found out it was to be a procession with the Virgin Mary starting around 5 PM so we decided to come back to the island that evening to participate. It was a Christian ceremony where almost the entire town gathered as they carried the statue of the Virgin Mary on a platform elaborately decorated with flowers and leaves and another platform also decorated, with the Baby Jesus and Joseph. We stopped at three different sights that had been decorated for the occasion with leaves and flowers. There were prayers and singing at each location before arriving to the church where they held a full Catholic service. This was all done in the local Polynesian language with a smattering of French and lots of singing which was absolutely wonderful even of we couldn't understand anything. We, as obvious strangers, were warmly welcomed into the group and on arrival to the church were led into the pews near the front. After the service we mingled with the locals and I had a chance to brush up on my French being what it is. They love to trade things here and we were asked for liquor, perfume, pencils, fishing line and whatever else we could spare. Unfortunately we don't carry much on board, really only what we need. But it was nice to chat with the locals and overall it was a really interesting experience. We then retired back to Segwun for a sundowner evening with Sue and Andy from SY Spruce. Tomorrow we set sail for Tahuata.
We left on Tuesday and made a 45 mile sail to Fatu Hiva where we anchored at the Bay of Virgins (originally named the Bay of Penises until the Christians showed up and found the name to be offensive to their delicate sensibilities and quickly renamed it). It is a spectacular anchorage and the rock formations are outstanding whatever you want to call them. But certainly more akin to penises than virgins.
In the morning we walked up the hill to get a view of the bay. It is amazing how quickly we get out of shape so it was good to get a little cardio exercise. Then we hiked inland, passing through a coconut grove and a dense rainforest area to get to the waterfall. Such a beautiful island; a real tropical paradise.
As we walked through town we noticed the locals were preparing for a celebration of sorts. We found out it was to be a procession with the Virgin Mary starting around 5 PM so we decided to come back to the island that evening to participate. It was a Christian ceremony where almost the entire town gathered as they carried the statue of the Virgin Mary on a platform elaborately decorated with flowers and leaves and another platform also decorated, with the Baby Jesus and Joseph. We stopped at three different sights that had been decorated for the occasion with leaves and flowers. There were prayers and singing at each location before arriving to the church where they held a full Catholic service. This was all done in the local Polynesian language with a smattering of French and lots of singing which was absolutely wonderful even of we couldn't understand anything. We, as obvious strangers, were warmly welcomed into the group and on arrival to the church were led into the pews near the front. After the service we mingled with the locals and I had a chance to brush up on my French being what it is. They love to trade things here and we were asked for liquor, perfume, pencils, fishing line and whatever else we could spare. Unfortunately we don't carry much on board, really only what we need. But it was nice to chat with the locals and overall it was a really interesting experience. We then retired back to Segwun for a sundowner evening with Sue and Andy from SY Spruce. Tomorrow we set sail for Tahuata.
Gauguin and Brell
It seems Hiva Oa, small island that it is, has had its share of famous residents. Both Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brell called this island home for the final days of their lives and are buried within a stones throw of each other in the cemetery.
Jacques died of cancer at the age of 48 and left a very good impression with the locals. After sailing here he decided to stay and traded in his sail boat for a small plane. He often used it to deliver mail or to take people for medical treatments to Tahiti becoming a much loved citizen of the community. On the other hand, Gauguin was in the third stage of syphilis and in his later years got his 14 year old house maid pregnant.
We went to the museum where we saw copies of many of Gauguin's paintings. Interesting, but I didn't see anything that I would spend my hard earned money on. He is your typical narcissistic artist with self portraits making up a good part of his collection. The museum also had an exhibit on the life of Jacques Brell displayed around his beloved airplane JoJo. I know very little about Jacques but he comes across as an incredibly passionate individual dedicated to the rights of the working class criticizing politics and the hypocrisy of wealth in his songs.
Jacques died of cancer at the age of 48 and left a very good impression with the locals. After sailing here he decided to stay and traded in his sail boat for a small plane. He often used it to deliver mail or to take people for medical treatments to Tahiti becoming a much loved citizen of the community. On the other hand, Gauguin was in the third stage of syphilis and in his later years got his 14 year old house maid pregnant.
We went to the museum where we saw copies of many of Gauguin's paintings. Interesting, but I didn't see anything that I would spend my hard earned money on. He is your typical narcissistic artist with self portraits making up a good part of his collection. The museum also had an exhibit on the life of Jacques Brell displayed around his beloved airplane JoJo. I know very little about Jacques but he comes across as an incredibly passionate individual dedicated to the rights of the working class criticizing politics and the hypocrisy of wealth in his songs.
A Basket of Groceries
So what do you think a small basket of groceries would cost? We indulged a little and bought some cheese, nuts and snacks together with a few necessities like tomatoes, cucumbers, baguettes, mayonnaise and chocolate (I have come to learn from Anna that chocolate is a necessity not a luxury), and after double checking our exchange rate realized we had spent just over a hundred dollars.
I guess that is the cost of being on an island literally in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. I heard another cruiser say this is the farthest we can be from any continent in the world. So it is not surprising these small luxuries come at a premium.
Two hamburgers with fries and a coke - $33.00
Basket of groceries - $104.00
An anchorage in paradise with the scent of ylang ylang flowers drifting through the air - Priceless
I guess that is the cost of being on an island literally in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. I heard another cruiser say this is the farthest we can be from any continent in the world. So it is not surprising these small luxuries come at a premium.
Two hamburgers with fries and a coke - $33.00
Basket of groceries - $104.00
An anchorage in paradise with the scent of ylang ylang flowers drifting through the air - Priceless
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