Chasms, Cliffs, Caves, Coves and Coconut Crabs

Chasms, cliffs, caves and coves pretty much describes Niue. The coral and limestone body of this island has also created good holding for trees and plants so the inland portions of the island are incredibly green and dense with vegetation. The circumference of the island is dotted with scenic outlooks, all well marked and accessible. Because there is no reef around the island the waves are constantly crashing into the shore creating interesting and scenic caves and coves.

We set out to explore this little gem in the pacific and had great fun climbing down into caves with stalactites and stalagmites, exploring coves leading out to shallow low tide pools and trooping through the ancient forest with its jagged coral based floor.

On one of our walks I very nearly walked on a Coconut Crab. I was so busy talking that by the time I noticed this big guy on the trail, I was almost on top of it. It sure gave me a fright. The Coconut Crab is a species of terrestrial hermit crab and is the largest land-living arthropod. They can grow up to one meter in length and weigh as much as 4 kilos. They make good eating and are often hunted to extinction but they seem to be quite plentiful on Niue.

And then Tarzan Jens was using a rope along one of the paths on our way to see the natural arches in the Tavala bay and he slipped and scraped his elbow, back and ankle. So we made a trip to the hospital to have it looked at since I wasn't sure if he would need stitches or not.

Niue has a population of 1,600 people. There are three doctors on call and 12 nurses. It was Saturday afternoon and I think the population must be relatively healthy as there was not much going on at the hospital. Anyhow, two lovely nurses tended to Jens' wounds and started him on some penicillin which is standard practice when a cut or scrape is caused by coral as the risk of infection is quite high. No stitches were required but just for the peace of mind I think it was well worth the $15.00 we paid for the service and medication.

New-Ay

We have arrived to Niue (pronounced New-Ay) and so far have been quite impressed. Niue is described as being the largest upraised coral island in the Pacific and is 250 square kilometres and its highest point is at a mere 69 meters. With its steep, jagged coast line and no beaches the island can look a little unwelcoming, especially for us yachties who prefer a shallow, sandy bottom for anchoring. The waves crashing into the rugged coast have created coves and caves with lagoons suitable for snorkelling and swimming and just generally fun to explore.

On arrival to Niue, you contact Niue Radio by VHF radio and after a few formalities, they in turn contact the customs and immigration officials and schedule an appointment for your clearing in process. The Alofi bay has about 20 mooring balls that sit in 30 to 60 feet of water. The Commodore of the Niue Yacht Club also comes down to the pier to greet you and offers to take you up to the yacht club to sign in as they are the ones who provide the moorings. The pier is quite high and the swells can get quite large, so they have a crane to hoist your dinghy up and out of the water whenever you come to shore.

The Niue Yacht Club is touted as being "the biggest little yacht club in the world" with more members than residents on the island and probably the only yacht club in the world with no yachts of its own. Keith, the Commodore is a great ambassador for the tourist industry in Niue and proudly gives all yachties a quick orientation to the island making us all feel very welcome and very much at home.

We have arrived at the same time as S/V's Mahine Tiare (John and Amanda who operate a sailing school), Ninita, Orkestren and Hydroquest. We first met Ninita and Orkestren in Galapagos, this is the first time we have met the Canadian boat Hydroquest and we actually raced Mahine Tiare from Beveridge Reef. So it is a little of a reunion of sorts which was made rather official because Wednesdays are pot lucks at the Yacht club and all crew were in attendance together with the local members making for a very fun evening with lots of food, drinks, music and stories.

The bay we are anchored in is not sheltered or protected in any way and if the winds come from the West, the anchorage becomes very rolly and quite uncomfortable. Which is exactly what happened on Saturday night. It rained and the wind howled for a good part of the night and the ocean swells made sleeping near impossible. In the morning the sun was out and as planned, we made ready to set sail to Tonga. Time to meet the whales!