Season Three is About to Begin

We slowly made our way back to Australia after having spent some time in Canada and Denmark visiting family and friends.  We left Brisbane on November 11th and flew home to Canada where we spent a couple of weeks getting the cottage ready for Christmas.  It was a chilly first few days until we got the furnace repaired and operating once more.  But it was nice to be home.  For many reasons, not the least of which was to see my family that I miss so much.  My biggest challenge on this journey is being homesick.  I miss seeing my Son and those casual moments with family and friends.  So it was nice to know that we had two months to enjoy it.  Somehow though, it went by just a little too fast.

December arrived and it was off to Denmark for a first visit with our new Grandson, Victor.  Victor was created in Galapagos and was born on November 13th in Odense, Denmark.

Victor with his big Polar Bear from Canadian Great Grandfather 

It was a flurry of activity in Denmark visiting the kids who have now moved from Aarhus to Aalborg and Odense. We stayed with Jens' Mom, Inger at her home in Aarhus making that our base.  We had so many lovely moments together with her, sharing breakfast and dinners most days; taking trips to the Aros Museum to see the exhibit of the Royals and a road trip to Grenaa through the lovely Danish countryside.  We stopped on the way at Gammel Estrup at a Manor House and heard about all the Christmas traditions from the 1800's, many of which are still in place today.

We had some great times with friends and family as everyone was getting into the Christmas spirit.  It seems every town has a Christmas market so you can imagine my delight in finding all kinds of small treasures to bring home.  We left Denmark for a day and visited with Christian and Birgit Schumann in Hamburg.  Hamburg also has a wonderful Christmas market at the city square which brought back some fond memories of my childhood.  The three weeks flew by and we were soon back to Canada just in time to prepare for the Canadian Christmas festivities.

Mör and me at Gammel Estrup

Aros Museum

The Christmas Market in Hamburg

 

Our tour in and around Denmark

There was a great deal more snow at the cottage when we arrived on December 22nd than when we left.  It was truly a lovely, winter wonderland and we arrived just in the middle of the famous ice storm of 2013.  Luckily, our flight arrived on schedule and we made it up to the cottage without any problems.   Unfortunately, this photographer was so busy "enjoying the moment" that I now realize I was completely delinquent in my duties and I don't have a single photograph of our time in Canada to share with you.  But, trust me, we had a lot of fun and the snowy landscape was beautiful and white.  We have to thank our family and friends for being such troopers and braving the cold, snowy and sometimes icy conditions to come all the way up to the cottage to see us.

And it seemed we left Toronto at the right time as well.  Another winter storm arrived to the Toronto area just after we left for Calgary.  The good folks in Calgary had already received enough snow and we had a lovely winter landscape to enjoy as we made our way around the city of Calgary, up to Banff, Invermere, Elbow Falls and Cochrane.  We were treated to some warm western hospitality  spending the week with my Brother Bob and his family and catching up with my high school friend Pat and her husband Neil.

Mary Lou and Robert at Elbow Falls

We left Canada with a few extra kilos from all the good food and wine over the holidays.  It was a long journey back to Brisbane where the temperatures are roughly 40 degrees higher than we had grown accustomed to.  I have to say though, I really enjoyed the cold and the snow.  Nature's beauty seems to be magnified somehow with a covering of snow.  The mountain landscapes in Alberta and BC are more spectacular than I remember.  It was Jens' first time in that part of Canada and I think he saw it at its best.  Mind you, the summer landscape is probably just as beautiful.  We'll have to make another trip West just to be sure.

Our Two Year Anniversary!

Here we are in Brisbane, Australia. It was so nice to see land and to know we had reached Australia. A place that both Jens and I have wanted to visit for a long time. I know it sounds a little crazy, but as we were sailing into Brisbane and making our way up the river to the quarantine dock at Rivergate Marina, the smells and sounds were tingling my senses as we passed a cement factory, a coal plant and the container terminal. It actually felt good to be amongst the industrial and commercial hubbub of a city.

We will have a special celebration this November. It will be two years since we moved into our new home and left the docks at Osprey Point Marina in Rock Hall, Maryland. We had a gentle start to our journey down the Intra Coastal Waterway before we set out to the big blue ocean down in Florida. Captain Jens had his hands full as we took on two new crew members making it three novice sailors aboard, but as eager and willing participants, Liz, Eric and I quickly learned the ropes. We certainly got our sea legs as we made our way against the wind and against the waves to get to BVI in time to meet up with family and friends. Antje became an honorary crew member while we sailed the Virgin Islands proving to be a good sailor and a good sport. Then it was off to St Marten and thankfully, smooth sailing down to The Dutch Antilles. Liz and Eric left us in Curaçao and Jens and I continued on our way to Colombia and Panama. We ended Season 1 with a little contest about shoes in the San Blas islands and our winner, Stan in Florida, became an honorary crew member even though he has yet to be aboard.

After a short break and visits home to Denmark and Canada, we arrived back to Panama with another new crew. Anna and Christian joined us just in time to do a little boat maintenance. We spent our first couple of weeks painting and varnishing together with the help of some local crew. Luckily, Fredrik was able to enjoy the fruits of his labour with some nice weekends in Bocas del Toro, Gatun Lake and Las Perlas. Then it was a trip through the canal where honorary crew members Johan and Fredrik helped us out, a crossing over the equator and six months later Anna and Christian were on their way back to Denmark from the Galapagos. What we didn't know at the time was that Anna was leaving us with a little something extra.

With a lot more confidence than I ever thought I would have, I was ready for the big journey across the Pacific. And here we are. We have traveled more than 14,000 miles, visited 22 countries and I can't begin to count how many islands since we left the coast of Florida.

SEGWUN is ready for a break while we fly home for holidays. She'll be in good company here at the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron. We have discovered three other Island Packets in this marina and we heard there are only 15 resident IP's in all of Australia. So you can imagine she gets quite a bit of attention.

Thanks to all our blog readers for the encouraging words and for joining us on this journey. We'll take a break and be back in January for more adventures as we explore Kiwi land and the Australian outback. In the meantime, enjoy our 'open house' with a virtual glass of champagne and a photo tour of SEGWUN to celebrate our two years at sea.

Chasing Sunsets

We are on the last leg of our journey that has taken us from the coast of Ecuador to Galapagos, across the great Pacific Ocean, through the islands and archipelagos of French Polynesia, Southern Cooks, Tonga, Fiji, New Caledonia and now finally to Australia. Once we arrive, we will have officially completed Season II of our cruising life.

As we headed West it felt like we were chasing the sun. And we were blessed with so many incredible sunsets. As I scroll through my pictures I see the evidence, although I must say that they don't really do justice to the real thing. Overall, we were remarkably lucky with the weather and I'm happy to note our wet weather gear stayed in the wet locker for most of the trip.

This last journey at sea was quite peaceful and uneventful. We like it that way. Six days and roughly 800 miles with a 360° view of nothing but sky and water and a full moon to keep us company at night.

During the day we would see the occasional sea bird and Jens spotted a couple of pilot whales (I somehow managed to miss those too!!). But the highlight of the trip was the sighting of an albatross. We saw an albatross chick on Isla de la Plata in Ecuador almost exactly a year ago; and then to see an adult at sea was quite a special moment. It was like a little icing on the cake of life.

At Sea Again

The journey from Fiji to New Caledonia: 695 miles - heading 236 degrees

Day 1: Wednesday, October 2nd
Departed Fiji at about 11:00am after a smooth clearing out process.
First Mate sea sick, Captain takes a long night watch.
Winds strong 17 to 25 knots steady from SSE.
Swells: 1.5 to 2 meters and at times confused.
Sails: Genoa only.
Weather: Mostly sunny.

Day 2: Thursday, October 3rd
First Mate recovers as wind and seas settle out.
Shifts and routines return to normal.
Movie - The Paperboy; a somewhat raunchy but interesting film starring Nicole Kidman.
Book - Jens continues with the Tom Clancy epic 'Executive Orders'; I start Michael Connelly's 'The Drop'.
Winds: Calmer at 14-17 knots dropping through the night to 10-13 knots from ESE.
Swells: Dropped to 1 to 2 meters.
Sails: Genoa only.
Weather: Cloudy. But with a gorgeous sunset...see picture below!!!
Distance covered in last 24 hours: 160 miles.

Day 3: Friday, October 4th
Captain acts as Barista and delivers a flat white and a double black to the cockpit.
Fishing lines are out for the first time this trip. Fishing lines in - nothing caught.
Movie - The Corporation; a very interesting documentary on the impact of corporations.
Book - Jens continues with his epic, I start Faye Kellerman's Moon Music
Winds: Dropping and staying at ESE blowing on our port aft quarter.
Swells: Less than 1 meter, no whitecaps.
Sails: Switched to main sail with preventer. Rolled in Genoa (too much flapping). Set the stay sail.
Weather: Mixed sun and cloud.
Distance covered in last 24 hours: 155 miles.

Day 4: Saturday, October 5th
Nothing seen, nothing heard. Quiet days at sea.
Fishing lines are back out. . . . BREAKING NEWS . . . Catch of the day - 2 beautiful MahiMahi...see pictures below!!!
Winds: Dropped overnight to less than 6 knots coming from NNE.
Swells: Pretty much flat water.
Sails: All sails in. Motoring at 6.0 knots.
Weather: Sunny with scattered clouds.
Distance covered in last 24 hours: 141 miles.

Day 5: Sunday, October 6th
Despite it being Sunday, we didn't have our usual pancake breakfast. The sea was a bit rough. Pancakes will have to wait for tomorrow. But we did have some fresh fish for lunch and a pineapple coconut cake for dessert.
Book - 'Then Again' by Diane Keaton (biography). And yes, Jens is still reading Tom Clancy.
Winds: Picked up at nightfall rising to 17 knots and settled at around 13 knots coming from SSW.
Swells: Slowly increased together with the wind.
Sails: After sailing most of the night with all sails up, the bolt on the genoa broke and we had to take the sails in, dismantle the genoa and secure the mast. We will now motor the rest of the way.
Weather: Mostly sunny.
Distance covered in last 24 hours: 117 miles.

Day 6: Monday, October 7th
We arrived to the South East corner at daybreak, the sun shining on New Cal. It will take the better part of the day to get around the island to Noumea where we can clear in.
A day late but not a dollar short - Coconut Pancakes served for breakfast.
Books - Jens finished Executive Orders and I finished Diane Keaton's memoirs. A very good read.
Movie - After reading her memoir, it felt like a good idea to watch 'The Family Stone' again. One of the four movies I have on my iPad.
Winds: Slowly dropped during the night and now we are in lee of the island, wind is light at 5 knots.
Swells: Also calmed down over night and now inside the island reef the water is calm.
Weather: Sunny
Distance covered in last 24 hours: 122 miles

We arrived to Noumea, New Caledonia at 11:00am on Monday, October 7th.

WE MADE IT!!!

From Tonga to Fiji

We set sail for Fiji with the waxing gibbous moon helping to guide the way. We left Tonga not knowing what treasures await us in Fiji. We heard from a passing sailor the natives are friendly and the food plentiful although we were warned to stay clear of the outlying islands where cannibalism is practiced. The first night's cloud cover made navigation difficult, but the trades were steady from the South East and we had little correction to make at noon on the second day.

Ha! As if the life of a modern day cruiser is like that. We have so much information about the places we are going to already at our fingertips. Our GPS applications keep us on track during the journey regardless of the weather and we can calculate our arrival time almost to the minute. We make our decisions on where to moor by whether or not there is easy access to good food stores and the quality of the wifi in that location. And, not surprisingly, the locals in the towns and cities are not much different than in many other places in the world. It is incredible to see the same name brand products; shoes, shirts, sunglasses, as you would in any North American or European city. We are truly a global community.

Having said that, there is still a great deal of charm and uniqueness in these small islands in the South Pacific. You don't need to move too far out from the town to see the more traditional way of life and feeling of community that is inherent in these cultures. I have to wonder though, how many more generations it will be before all of this completely disappears.

We arrived to Savusavu, Fiji in the middle of the night. We picked up a mooring ball, went to bed for a few hours and are now waiting for the clearing in process before we can get to shore.

An Update on The Journey

As we sail our way across the Pacific, we occasionally make small changes to our plans, deciding which countries and islands to visit as we go along. Lucky for us, we don't have to seek approval for these changes. We check the wind, the calendar, confer with each other and then go for it. But it also means I often forget to tell everyone what we have decided. I was looking at our blog the other day and realized that we still had New Zealand as our destination for this season.

To update everyone, some time back we decided to sail directly to Australia instead of stopping in New Zealand. A couple of things drove this decision. Firstly, the passage to New Zealand is typically made from the southern Tongan group of islands which means we would miss visiting Fiji and New Caledonia. It can also be a difficult passage to New Zealand as the weather windows between storms is usually shorter than the time it takes to make the passage. So you are either heading out on the tail end of a storm, or arriving at the beginning of some bad weather. Secondly, the Tasman sea, which we would have to cross to reach Australia, is also known to be difficult and it is recommended that you don't leave New Zealand until May. That meant we would have spent 7 months in New Zealand. And lastly, to fly home from New Zealand we would be flying via Sydney anyway. That convinced us to sail SEGWUN to Australia and then fly across to New Zealand and do our touring by car/camper van early next year.

Our new plan has us visiting Fiji and New Caledonia on our way to Brisbane this season. We expect to get to Brisbane by the beginning of November. Then it's time to take a break from the boat, head home to Denmark and then Canada for Christmas and New Year. We'll be back to Australia and New Zealand in January for a few months of land travel before moving on once again.

You can see by the map below how far we have traveled. It has been a fantastic voyage so far. We have visited many places that we never thought we would be so fortunate to get to as well as a few places we didn't even know existed.

A Trip That Took Forever ... And a Day

We left Niue mid-morning on Sunday after a stormy, windy and very uncomfortable night at anchorage. We normally start our trips at first light, but this time we left a little later so we wouldn't arrive to Tonga in dark. The distance we were sailing was 248nm and if the wind is good we easily cover 140 miles a day. Our calculations had us making this crossing in 38 hours.

It all started fine. The sun was shining and the wind had settled to about 13 knots coming from North-East which was just what we needed. We left the anchorage with both sails up and happy to be back at sea, looking forward to Tonga and the promise of whales. For the better part of the first day, the wind was in our favour and even though the sea swells were against us, we were making good time.

It was sunset (my shift) when everything started to fall apart. We ran into a few rain squalls which had the wind playing tricks on us. Unfortunately it was a little more than I could handle alone, so Jens came up and took over. We had two or three squalls that night, each time turning us around trying to chase the wind. Eventually, the wind settled but it was coming directly from West and right on our nose,

We were still just barely at the halfway mark. It was a little too early to start motoring and the wind, even if it was from the wrong direction, was still blowing at 15 knots. So we did what good sailors do and we took a long tack, hoping the wind would change again at some point. We sailed on our North-West tack for 67nm before tacking again and sailing another 60nm. By this time, we had succumbed to the fact that we would be at sea a little longer than originally planned.

Such is the life of a sailor. There is either too much wind, not enough wind, or the wind is coming from the wrong direction. And to complete our experience this trip, the wind actually died out completely. There we were, 80nm from our destination in a sea that was completely calm, a beautiful full moon rising but no wind. Jens and I are both a little too impatient to wait these things out so we started the engine, changed our course to a direct line and motored the rest of the way.

We did arrive in dark, a full day later than expected. No, wait. We have to add another day to that. At some point in the night we crossed the line. The international date line that is. So our little sail that should have been a breeze, took us forever...plus a day.

The Story of the Mahi Mahi

This is the story of the one that got away. It started in the Bahamas where we were novices at fishing from a sailboat. Eric had just sent a line out and before he could turn his back, "Splang!!!", the line went tight.

Ok, but first let's start with the whole fishing story. We, meaning Eric and Jens, had researched tips for fishing at sea. We tried several things which seemed to bring a certain level of success, but we were losing more lures than we were catching fish. After consulting with a guy at a marine shop, we started using slightly smaller lures and using a bungee cord as a spring to let us know when we got a hit. This also gives the line a little slack so it is less likely to snap. That worked pretty well and we started catching some nice Spanish Mackerel and Tuna. We even caught a Barracuda but they are not recommended eating, so we released it back to the water.

Well, that Splang meant we had caught a big one. And sure enough, we did. A gorgeous four foot Mahi Mahi (also known as a dolphin fish). Such excitement and I of course needed a photo. I got a couple of good shots and then just as Eric and Jens were lifting it over the rail to bring it into the boat, it gave a might shake and got away. What a shame. But at least I had a photo...at least I thought so. But that is exactly when my Nikon acted up and wouldn't you know it, I couldn't download the photo. All evidence of this great catch was gone.

We have been hoping for another Mahi Mahi since then. But Jens seemed to have lost his fishing mojo and we haven't been catching much fish since we left the coast of Ecuador. We had caught a small Mahi Mahi a while back, but it was very small and we released it back into the water.

So anyhow, we had pretty much given up fishing altogether but the other day, as Jens was cleaning out one of our many storage bins, he came across a new lure we didn't know we had. He dubbed it the Lucky Lure in hopes it would live up to its name and as we set sail for Rarotonga he decided it was time to catch some fish.

After the second day of fishing, we heard that wonderful sound again. Splang!!! And wouldn't you know it, a beautiful Mahi Mahi. Three feet long, shimmering blue and yellow. We thought this time we would be more prepared having learned from our past experience. Instead of lifting the fish over the rail, Jens reels it in close to the boat, puts the gaffer hook through it and opens the side rail so he just has to lift it up onto the deck. By some strange fate, this guy too did a one, two and flew off the gaffer hook. In a blink of an eye It was gone, just like Eric's fish. Dang.

But we didn't give up and today was a repeat performance from yesterday. At around the same time of day as well. But this time, our beautiful 3 foot catch made it to the deck and less than two hours later, the filets were in a frying pan for lunch. Delicious.

PS: I stopped taking photos until the catch was safely on board, and this time we were so excited I didn't have time to get my camera. So you'll just have to take my word on the size of the fish. :)

SEGWUN is at Sea Again

Hi folks. SEGWUN here again. I haven't had a chance to have my say since we crossed through the Panama Canal to the Pacific Ocean last October. The first mate is feeling a little sea sick today, so I finally have my chance to speak.

Yup, we are at sea once again. Can you believe it? I spent more than 21 days sailing my butt off to get them to land, and they barely get the green gunk off my bottom and we're off again. This is one big ocean we are sailing in. I heard them talking the other day and it seems we are only half way to New Zealand. Half way! Can that really be true? Oh, it's times like this when I really do miss my beloved Chesapeake Bay. All those familiar people and places and my lovely, lovely berth at Osprey Point Marina. Gosh I miss them sometimes. I wonder if they also miss me.

But on the bright side I have met many other nice boats. A few of my relatives as well. There were at least four of us Island Packets in one bay not long ago. And I just know, not to be snotty or anything, that we are the prettiest of the boats at anchor. Mind you I can't compete with Erica XII. She's a 172 foot sail boat built in Holland. She's also quite young, less than 10 years old. My feelings were a little hurt when my captain kept staring at her, through his binoculars no less. And then he looks her up on the Internet and drools over her some more. Sure makes me feel a little under appreciated. And to make it worse, at the next bay we sail to, there is SuRi, a huge motor yacht. You would think there is no competition, until they start taking the toys out. Seadoos, motor boats, a vintage cruiser, a two story slide and to really make you jealous, a helicopter. Word was that it was Tom Cruise's boat but that turned out to be a rumour. Well all toys aside, she wasn't the nicest looking yacht.

In my heart, I know they really love me best. The seas today are big with huge 4 meter swells and 22 knot winds, but they know I can handle that. No sweat. Even with my genoa furled to just a tiny square I'm moving us along at 6 knots. The sea is a bit bouncy on this journey so I understand it is not the most comfortable sailing and those big swells are coming across my bow and sometimes crashing into the cockpit. We're a happy group and we all get along just fine. My Captain takes good care of me and he brags about my beautiful lines, bright work and performance every chance he gets. And I know the first mate wouldn't trade me for anything even if she does get a bit sea sick now and again. As much as I sometimes miss the good old days of sailing the Atlantic I really do enjoy the challenge and the sights of the Pacific. What a magnificent journey I am on.

Ah yes, back to the journey. This trip will be a little shorter than the last. Only three and a half days to the Tuamotus. We expect to get to the atoll called Kauehi by Sunday. A distance of only 509 miles from Ua Pou. I heard they received a message on their satellite phone from my buddy S/V Enchantment. They left from Nuku Hiva last Saturday and are already there. Enchantment is also an Island Packet you see. We first met at the San Isabel anchorage in Galapagos and since then we have anchored close to each other several times. So nice to travel with my sister ship.

We'll be visiting some of the atolls of this archipelago over the next few weeks and then head to Pape'ete, Tahiti where we are picking up a very special guest. Lots of excitement on this little craft.

Erica XII at anchorage.

M/Y SuRi with it's garage full of toys and a helicopter no less.

The Cruisers

We have been 'cruising' for about 18 months now and have had the pleasure of meeting many people traveling and living on their boats. It is interesting to meet people from all over the world, hear their stories and share information about the places we have been or the places we are going to. And although it is a relatively small population of the world that are living on the water, I have found you can group them into categories. This isn't a scientific exercise by any means, just some general observations,

Categories

The Young Adventurers
Typically mid 20's to early 30's the people in this group don't yet have children and have earned just enough money to buy a boat (usually quite small) and plan to sail around the world in 2 years or less or until the money runs out. Lured by the adventures of the sea they have willingly left the securities of home and job. High energy, quick to get to shore at the destination and explore all things possible before shoving off to the next port.

The Families
My guess is these are people who thought of sailing around the world in their early twenties and somehow didn't get started or waited till they had a little more money to buy the boat they wanted. By then they have had a couple of kids but decided the time was now or never. Equipped with all you need for homeschooling they set off to explore the world. I have to say, they are quite admirable as a boat can be a small space for young ones with a lot of energy to burn.

The Early Retirees
This is the group that Jens and I fall into. Not quite old enough to collect a pension cheque every month but decided the monthly pay cheque just isn't as important as living ones dream while still young and healthy enough to fully enjoy it. These are couples who have either been together for a long time or are newly married. I am what I have come to realize, the "sailor wife". Typically the first wife probably wasn't interested in the idea of living on a sail boat so when wife number two should come along, make certain that sailing the world is discussed early and often as you develop the relationship. Otherwise, you might find yourself in the category of Single Handers.

The Single Handers
Middle aged men who didn't find a sailing wife or are just too ornery to share a small space with a mate and decided to go it alone. Watch out for these guys as they spend a lot of time in their own company so when they do find other people, it is near impossible to get them to stop talking.

The Die Aboards
Having sold everything to buy the boat of their dreams, this group's biggest concern is with the cost of living going forward and the main purpose of cruising has turned into finding paradise for a penny including all the beer you can drink. They usually end up at an anchorage somewhere off the coast of a small town where groceries and entertainment are cheap. The boat quickly becomes a fixture in the bay, green bottomed and dull from lack of polish and regular maintenance and they themselves quickly become fixtures at the local watering hole. The residents of these boats are easy to spot having long given up professional haircuts and forgotten the fine art of a regular shave. Their clothes are faded and worn and their footwear is a pair of razor thin flip flops. They probably had intended to cruise around the world at one point but discovered the cost was going to exceed their means as boat maintenance and repairs can be quite steep and marina fees can quickly erode a good part of your monthly budget.

What we all have in common:
We love cheap stuff, particularly good prices on food and wine. To the point that even the biggest wine snobs soon tout the virtues of wine in a box. It's important to stretch our budget as far as possible because the fact of the matter is sailboats do need constant care and maintenance. And things for boats are always incredibly expensive. And you can't find them everywhere so add to that the cost of shipping.

We have lots of stories to tell, and stories of things gone wrong are the most popular. The men talk about engines and sails and rudders and bilges and whatever, while us girls talk about how to bake bread and cakes in that incredibly small oven, where to buy the best souvenirs in town and where we should go for dinner.

Best of all, cruisers are quick to make friends and invitations to a sundowner evening is a regular occurrence. After spending so many days at sea, even if it is with your soul mate, we still look forward to some fresh company now and again.

Pacific Crossing, Part X—Land Ahoy!

Land Ahoy, Land Ahoy. I hear Jens shouting as I am just getting out of the shower, so I quickly run up to see. And oh what a sight. We have been anticipating this moment and it is as sweet a sight as you can imagine. Hooray, yippee, thanks to God we made it. I am at a loss for words to explain how this feels. We saw the island of Hiva Oa first, then just to the left was Mohotani. We'll arrive to Baie Tahauku on Hiva Oa some time after lunch today, completing our 21 1/2 day journey across the Pacific Ocean.

The last couple of days have been long and slow, almost as if the delight of arriving was being delayed on purpose, the wind teasing us as we got closer and closer. Suddenly we would have only four knots of wind, then 11 but from ENE. Then steady at 9 knots from ESE just barely enough to fill the sails. We were moving slowly, slowly but as quickly as possible. Last evening there was no wind at all so we dropped the sails and put the steel spinnaker into action.

Once we arrive we will tend to the practicalities such as getting some local currency, checking into the country and getting some laundry done. And we have a few phone calls to family in Denmark and Canada and some emails to send and the blog to update. And then it's time to start exploring these islands.

We have the next 23 weeks to explore the islands of the South Pacific as we make our way to New Zealand. We want to be to New Zealand by mid-October to be sure to avoid the cyclone season here. Keep those atlases handy, cause we'll be going to lots of islands with strange sounding names. Some will be familiar like Bora Bora, Tonga, Tahiti and Samoa but if you're like me you probably don't know exactly where they are. So far we have made a sail plan for the Marquesas Islands which will take us to the islands of Fatu Hiva, Tahuatu, Ua Huka, Nuku Hiva and Ua Pou before we set off for the Tuamotus.

Pacific Crossing, Part IX — And Now for the Flip Side

Time to put all those romantic notions away and spill the beans about what it is really like to cross the Pacific Ocean in a 44 foot boat. It isn't at all like being on a cruise ship with candlelight dinners, strolls along the deck and drinks under light of the moon. There are some wonderful and special moments to be sure, but it has not been without its challenges.

Luckily, we haven't had any major weather problems, no breakdowns of equipment and no medical emergencies. In fact no problems of any kind. Thanks to all the well wishes we received our journey has been smooth and trouble free. That's the good part. The bad part is it makes for a rather dull blog and we won't have that incredible, life changing moment story to tell when we get home. I'm ok with that, but I feel we may disappoint those hoping to hear how we conquered the ocean through our ingenuity, strength and sheer determination. The only thing we have had to conquer on this trip was a severe case of boredom and restlessness.

For two people who have spent most of their lives being incredibly busy with work and family, I think we have coped quite well with this slow paced life on the ocean. We talk a lot about the things we want to do and make all kinds of plans for our return. But at some point, I can't help thinking of that Elvis Presley song - a little less conversation, a little more action please. Enough planning and discussing, let's just do something!!!

The difficult part of being on a boat for so long is being confined to such a small space and the limited movement. Well, that's not exactly true. We are moving all the time because of the waves and that, in and of itself, can be quite annoying. Especially when the boat is rocking a lot and just a small task like washing dishes takes a great deal of coordination and balance. And after a rough night at sea I feel like I haven't really slept cause it is impossible to lie still. So, I guess I am saying I miss moving around on my terms.

We eat incredibly well on this boat even if every meal is taken on your lap, one hand on the plate at all times. We did a good job of provisioning but I still have cravings for things we don't have (of course) like ice cream or oranges. Hmmm. I sure do hope they have ice cream in Hiva Oa.

This has been an experience like no other and I am glad for the opportunity but I won't hurry to do this again. Maybe it's a bit like childbirth and after a few months the memories of the boredom and the lack of mobility will be forgotten and I will romanticize the trip as I flip through my many nice sunset photos and enjoy the benefits of this long journey as we island hop in the South Pacific and will change my mind. Or maybe a not.

But talk to Jens and he has a completely different view. He is doing something he has dreamed of since he was a child and read the stories of Thor Heyerdahl and the Kon Tiki. He has romanticized this journey as following in the footsteps of the famous Captain Cook, crossing the largest ocean in the world. He is all about the journey, whereas I am all about the getting there. Perhaps not such a bad balance.

Pacific Crossing, Part VIII — The Last Stretch and Making Yoghurt

It is April 20th and we are less than 500 miles from our destination. The wind died down yesterday to a disappointing 4 to 5 knots but it picked up a bit during the night bringing our distance for the day to a respectable 125 miles. Today the winds have been reasonable and it looks like we'll be making landfall in another three or four days. We may actually need to slow down a little so we don't arrive in dark.

Our food supplies are still plentiful despite the lack of fish. However, we are down to the last bit of purchased yoghurt. Time to try out the recipe for homemade yoghurt. I remember my Turkish friends telling me they made yoghurt all the time. I just never realized what a simple process it was. I made my first attempt this morning and so far the results look impressive.

What you need:
• 3 tablespoons of yoghurt (pick one that you like the flavor of, make sure it does not contain sugar and is natural flavour)
• 1 liter of milk
Sterilize your pot and containers before you start (usually if they come out of the dishwasher that is sufficient, otherwise just pour boiling water over them)

Bring the milk to a temperature of 110 to 115°F. You can bring it to a boil and let it cool to the right temperature, just be sure to stir it so it doesn't get a skin on top. Mix the three tablespoons of yoghurt into one cup of the warm milk to thin before mixing into the rest of the milk. Stir it gently and then cover the container and keep warm for 5 to 10 hours depending on the consistency and flavour that you like.

To keep it warm, I heated a cast iron pot, covered it in a towel and put it in the bottom of a cooler bag, put the yoghurt in a plastic container on top, zipped it up and left it on the counter. When I get home, I'll just use my warming drawer, but I read you can also put it in your oven on bread proof setting. Another option is to put it in a thermos that has been warmed up with hot water.

Once the yoghurt is at the consistency you like (longer equals thicker and tarter), put it in the fridge. It will last for two weeks. If you want to add flavour do so just before serving (i.e. jam, honey, fruit, garlic and herbs, etc.). See how easy that was!

So, even though we have plenty of food and water and fuel on board and continue to find things to keep ourselves busy, we are both getting a bit stir crazy and look forward to planting our feet on the ground. Almost there!

Pacific Crossing, Part VII — The Night Watch

It is April 17 and we have completed 14 days at sea as of 9 AM this morning. Hah! And I thought I could never do it. I had always said I could never, and I mean never, imagine myself so far away from land. Well, here is living proof, that one should never say never as that is exactly what you will end up doing. It has been true for me many times during my life.

To celebrate two weeks at sea we had a glass of wine and a snack of nuts and raisins and raised a toast to the fine winds we have been having lately (ps the wine came out of a TBA 1 liter slim from Chile - quality was so, so; and the nuts were rather poor particularly in comparison to the world class nuts we had become accustomed to in Lebanon, Turkey and Iran. Oh yes, those were the absolute best!! And just for the record, we are saving the good wine to celebrate our arrival to Marquesas.)

Another night watch ahead of me. Luckily, I have the sunset and the moonset to distract me. Tonight the sunset was quite lovely as there was a clear sky but for a few wispy clouds here and there. I had my camera out and as I lean out of the boat, stretching my arm as far as it can reach hoping to get that magical shot of the sails, boat and sunset all in one, I'm happy Jens is below so he doesn't worry I might fall out or drop my camera.

Taking the sunset photos keeps me busy for about 15 minutes or so.  Then I have some time to read before it gets too dark. I can always use my headlamp but it is not my favorite thing to do. The book has to be really compelling. Otherwise, I reach for my iPad and play some games - Sudoku, Solitaire, or Angry Birds, or watch a movie. And then I wait for the moonset. I know I won't get a photo, but I can look longingly at it and think of how beautiful this world can be.

I have six hours ahead of me to think and do nothing but contemplate life before waking Jens at midnight. I often think about the wonderful people in my life and the many places I have been and the things I have done so far. I can't say my life has been boring. Interesting, sometimes exciting and perhaps a bit unusual, but not boring. And then I imagine how I would like the next 30 or so years to be.

Mind you, I sometimes also spend a lot of time thinking about rather dull things. Lately I have been working on making bread. I had tried the no knead bread recipe last fall without success. I liked the idea of a bread that you didn't need to knead. A lazy persons bread. But, for some reason, I just couldn't get it to rise. So I gave up and switched to beer bread. I soon got tired of that one and on this trip Jens wasn't prepared to donate his beer anyway, so I went back to experimenting with the no knead bread. I had read a few articles about making bread on the Internet and deduced that I had one of two problems. Either too much water or the yeast was insufficient either in quality or quantity. That leaves only the flour but I have to assume that the flour is fine. Well, the water one was solved. It is extremely humid here so I reduced the water. But the dough was still not rising very well. So I used more yeast and tried activating it with some warm water and a bit of sugar first. That worked really well and we now have some great homemade, crusty, chewy bread. So much better than some of the bread we had been buying which was all air and had the consistency of styrofoam.

As it gets darker the sea becomes a mysterious place. The waves make strange noises and I start to imagine things. What if there are monsters in the sea, knocking against the boat, thier breath making those strange pouffing sounds as they are climbing over the hull, making their way into the cockpit. They could grab my ankle and pull me into the ocean and Jens wouldn't notice until morning. No, don't be ridiculous. That's just silly.

Ok, so then I get to thinking about the mole on my shoulder that has been itchy and maybe suddenly it has turned into a cancerous growth that is eating away at my bones and muscles. No wonder my shoulder has been aching. I thought it was from sleeping on it for too long. Hmmm. I wonder if we will get to a doctor in time to save me.

Well, I have to say, that even though the mind can play little games now and then, we always find our way back to the rational reasonable world. That even though it is pitch black except for the twinkling of the stars and there is nothing but miles and miles of ocean around me, I know there are no such thing as monsters. And I am pretty sure it is just a harmless mole. Oh, oh. What was that noise. It sounded like something at the stern. Is it a giant octopus clinging to the ladder, slowly making its way on board, its tentacles slithering up into the cockpit. Maybe it is already there, hiding in the dinghy, its big eye peering over the edge, just waiting, watching...

Pacific Crossing, Part VI — The Things You See at Sea

There are not so many things to gaze at while in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. One wave looks pretty much like the other. Mind you the color of the water tends to change shades from a deep blue to dark gray, depending on the clouds and the time of day. And the swells are rather interesting to watch as they slowly make their way towards the boat, some cresting so close that you think they are actually trying to get into the boat with you. But waves and swells are not so interesting to photograph.

Dolphins
We love dolphins and they seem to enjoy coming around the boat as well. We had the pleasure of their company yesterday evening. It was a pod of dolphins, difficult to say how many but at least ten. They seem to like swimming in the surf the boat creates. They can swim quite fast and are lovely to watch. I think they came by to help us celebrate our reaching the half way mark on this journey.

Sunsets and Moonsets
We all love a beautiful sunset and I have taken my share of photos. I never cease to be amazed at the changing colors and hues and shapes and patterns created by the setting sun. At sea it is really cool to see the sun dipping into the ocean or sometimes it looks as if it is falling off the edge of the earth.

Moonsets are also quite beautiful. Impossible to photograph on a boat that is constantly moving but amazing to watch. Tonight I was treated to a real beauty of a moonset. It was a crescent waxing moon, the type where you expect to see someone reclining in its curve. As it slowly sank on the horizon it turned an incredible shade of peachy pinky orange, slipped behind a cloud for a moment before making its final dip into the ocean and out of sight. I think it was almost as beautiful as those great big harvest moons we see back home.

Flying Fish
These strange creatures that can't seem to decide if they belong in the ocean or in the sky are quite abundant in this ocean. We have seen large schools of them flying out of the water, apparently being chased by a predator. Or perhaps just going for a fly the same as we dip in the ocean for a swim.

Debris
Well, the most interesting debris we saw was what appeared to be a raft. Three large logs held together somehow bobbing along. We could only speculate what it was, where it was coming from and if anyone had ever been on it. But we didn't see any sign of Wilson.

Pacific Crossing, Part V — The Halfway Mark

We are now, according to our maps, half way to our destination. We have decided to head for the island of Hiva Oa instead of Nuku Hiva. Hiva Oa is a little further south in the Marquesas group of islands and from there it is a shorter trip to Fatu Hiva, which is an island that is apparently worth seeing. So, why don't we just head directly to Fatu Hiva? Well, first we must check in to the country, clearing through customs and immigration as you would do on arrival to any new country and we can only do that in either Nuku Hiva or Hiva Oa where there are ports of entry. From Fatu Hiva, we will make our way North again before heading West to Tahiti.

Coincidentally, we have also just about completed half of our three year adventure. If you remember, we had started with the plan to be out sailing for three or four years, but have since decided that we will stop after three years. It was not an easy decision as there are still so many places we would like to explore. Jens' ambition had been to cross the Pacific Ocean and although he would easily continue with this lifestyle for much longer, he knows that I yearn to be home again.

By this time next year we will begin the preparations to go home and continue with our careers. What that will mean, we don't yet know. We spend a lot of time discussing various options and scenarios. But who knows what will transpire. I have often said, if you keep an open mind doors will open up that you never thought of and opportunities will come.

We have been 10 days at sea. They have been largely uneventful (which is a good thing!) and the wind has been favorable. The past five days or so we have sailed an average of 175 miles per day. I am hoping this trend will continue which means we reach landfall in another 10 days.

In this big vast ocean we are but a tiny little speck.

Pacific Crossing, Part IV — One Zero to the Fish

We had imagined life at sea to be smooth, lazy days with a fresh fish on the table for dinner every night. Not so. At least not so far. We have had our lines out a few times on the days when the swells were not too big, but we haven't caught a thing yet. Even using our new lure. In fact we lost a lure making it 1 to 0 for the fish. Dang.

Mind you, if we didn't mind eating squid, we would have some every day. They literally jump onto the boat at night. This morning the harvest consisted of 12 squid and a flying fish. Yummy! Ok, maybe not so yummy.

We have started to do a squid count every morning now as it seems it will be the only fish coming onto the boat this trip. Today the flying fish outnumbered the squid. Oh yes, and after another day with the lines in the water, the score is 2 to 0 for the fish.

We had the lines in the water again and I unfortunately have to report the score is now 3 to 0 for the fish. Jens is losing hope. And running out of lures.

We haven't put away the fishing gear just yet. We had a line out with a small lure for a couple of days. We didn't catch anything on that so today Jens decided to try one of the larger lures we had bought before we left Galapagos. Good try, nice effort, but the fish are still winning and we can now count 4 to 0 for the fish.

The only fish Jens has brought in are these small, smelly flying fish that landed on the deck last night. It's a pretty poor situation. Seems you have lost your fishing mojo, Jens?